Open Overcast Seam Finish. With right sides together, sew your seam and press open. All you need to do to finish the binding is to fold over the binding to the other side of the quilt and then sew into the seam that you created with the first round of stitching. Seam binding, on the other hand, is a standard ribbon that can be use d for necklines and arm holes, in addition to finishing seams. For more info on different types of seams and seam finishes, pop to this post first for a good overview of the different types of seams . Using a single thread, overcast both edges of the seam allowance, spacing threads about 1/4″ apart. There are many benefits to using bias tape to finish your seams, and there are many different ways to do this. HOW: This is a really simple seam finish. Hand overcast. In this tutorial we will cover three basic techniques - overlocking/serging, pinking and binding. To make this seam finish, first sew a seam with your regular seam … With the Overlock foot #2/#2A, set your sewing machine to sew a zig-zag stitch (and make sure you are using a zig-zag stitch plate before starting). Like the French seam, the false French seam can only be used on straight seams without heavy fabric. This seam finish yields the same result as the French seam with a slightly different process. You only need your regular sewing machine for it, and it’ll work for a variety of fabrics. The majority of projects you encounter require at least a little hand stitching. Fortunately, there are several ways to finish and secure a coverstitch seam, and it varies from machine to machine. 1. Often used as a couture seam finish, hand overcasting takes more time than a machine stitch finish, but is a lovely way to control seam edges and raveling. Here is an overview of the two most common methods: The clip and pull and the secure-by-hand method. This seam is best for straight seams, but should not be used for curved seams. The goal is to make your hand stitching as invisible as possible. This technique is often used even when the final garment is lined. A Zigzag finish is a great multipurpose seam finish. Sew close to edge (of seam allowance. You can be sure the garment is sturdy when you use this seam because all seams are sewn twice. 4. For each side of seam allowance, turn under 1/4” or less and press. So if the thread ends are not secured, the seam will unravel quickly. This makes it ideal for children’s clothes. Although it’s tempting to rush through this last bit of stitching, the Pro Secret is to take the extra time to create a clean finish. Often, it’s the final seam closure after turning a project right side out. Things that are hand washed or generally washed gently will do better with pinked seams. A French seam is one of the best ways to finish a project. Fold the binding at the corners to ensure a neat finish. When you finish your seams, you are basically securing and neatening the raw edged excess seam allowance exposed on the inside of your garment, essentially preventing them from fraying. Nothing crazy here! WHEN TO USE IT: light to medium weight woven fabrics. This is known as stitching “in the ditch.” Sew along the seam to finish your binding. An open seam is one where the seam allowance is visible, an enclosed seam is a seam were the seam allowance is enclosed, and so less likely to fray and unravel. CLEAN FINISH EDGE. 2. Zigzag finish. May be too bulky for heavier fabrics. To create an overcast seam finish pressed open, begin by sewing your garment as usual with a 5/8″ seam allowance. Press the seam open after stitching. I like to use it when I forget to plan ahead for a French seam.
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