diy knife grinding jig

I like the fat taper this jig puts on the material, but sometimes I use a smaller file for my material, which would require a thinner taper... Will this work for something like this? Answer 1 year ago. to reduce the thread turning easily, simply drill a cross hole to make whipper snipper cord (strimmer line) and insert a length in so it rubs on the side of the thread - if needed you can then put a smaller screew/ bolt in to increased the force of the strimmer line against the thread to further reduce moevemnt, but without marking up your thread. 11 months ago. Add knob or handles to the back of the bottom plate to give you better handles to move it around. 1 year ago what was the total cost of all supplies, and what do you think about substituting those screws, (Just the ones that can be substituted) for welds? I like the brass rod idea. slots would allow different knife rivet holes spacing to work. But if you would rather, using two nuts is definitely a great option. Use a wingnut for one of the nuts maybe with a split washer. Thank you. very nice work by the way! 5 months ago. You will need a bolt, preferably two, to be able to attach the post to the plate. For this construction, you only need some tools like a band saw, a drill press, a tap and die set. Introduction: Knife Grinding Jig. I would put a nut on each side of your long bolt to lock the angle you set. Make the brass rod length twice the diameter of the hole to keep it from turning around in the hole. Got my vote. I have included the Tinkercad link to the knob I made for my 5/16 bolt below. I then started searching for DIY options and came across this: Adjustable Angle Knife Grinding Jig. 4 months ago. Future steps will highlight what bolts I used). Now that it was mostly complete it was time to tighten the hinge and start cleaning it up. 2. I cut a slot in the middle of a piece of 50x50x5mm aluminium angle corresponding to the size of the bar knife holder and drilled and tapped a M8 hole for the angle grind adjustment. But I think it is possible as long as you can attach it securely. If you want, this is as far as you need to go to have a functional grinding jig. To be able to adjust the angle, a bolt is used that pushes against the hinge. (both ends) I will also add a spring on each side to pull the plate against the adjustment bolt to prevent it from falling forward. This is as far as I have taken this design at this time. According to the designer, this knife sharpening jig doesn’t require a CNC or plasma to build. I then drilled a hole in each corner and countersunk it so that I could use a small flat head bolt to attach the Lexan to the bottom plate. I was recently looking for a knife grinding jig so that I didn't have to free hand it if I didn't want to but they were all in the $70 to $150 range and there was no way I was going to pay that when I knew I could make one myself. I used the hinge as a template for where to drill the holes and then drilled and tapped the holes to accommodate the bolts that came with the hinge. Question Share it with us! I ended up switching from hex head bolts to button bolts for the bolt post because there was not enough clearance to turn them with the Lexan plate on. As you can see, adding any of the above plastics on the bottom will allow it to slide easier. get consistent grinds every-time on both sides of the knife If you are interested, below are some ideas of potential additions. I'll try it out and update this if it works well. I just adjusted the front plate to be parallel with my grinder and sanded them down to be flush with the plate. I have not tried this on an axe to be positive but I would imagine using a larger face plate or making a fixture to attach to the smaller plate would definitely make it easier. Welding is definitely an option, I just don't have a welder yet. More by the author: About: Retired Boat builder,CNC programmer,Process Engineer More About marcello bianchi » I made the jig to achieve consistent grinds on both sides of the knife without having to reposition the blade, the jig has a definite location point . I originally wanted to put in a set screw but held off because I wasn't sure it needed it but after the test grind I think it would be very helpful. If you want to use a regular hinge then you will definitely need a spring. During my test grind, I found that it was easy to accidentally adjust the angle when grinding. Because the set screw only needs to be tight enough to stop the bolt from moving, it didn't appear to mess up the threads in my testing but there is that possibility. Question To set the hinge, you need to use an hex key wrench to twist the side of the hinge and then insert the small pin when you have twisted as much as possible. If you have any recommendations on improvements or additions please let me know in the comments. The materials used in the tutorial were mostly scrap materials. I was thinking the same thing about how the set screw would slowly ding up the threads on the adjusting bolt - and thought using extra nuts, as you suggest, would solve the problem! It was difficult to adjust the bolt by just turning the end of it so I decided to 3D print a simple knob that I glued to the bolt to make it easier to turn the bolt. I don't know if you missed it but if you use a spring door hinge then there is a spring integrated into the hinge with plenty of force to keep the plate against the adjustment bolt. I used 12 x 6 mm bar cut to 64mm and drilled 3 holes at 5mm and tapped the middle hole through both bars and then tapped the holes on the ends on on piece only. I have seen other designs use a plastic plate on the bottom and I though it was probably there to reduce friction but I wanted to look up the friction amounts myself just to double check. I have access to a decent amount of scrap steel so I modified the design to be more solid and include a couple additional features. As we learn from this blog, sharpening a knife is easier in theory than it is in practice since the trick is creating the right angle to create the bevel that gives it a cutting edge. Then you only have to tighten finger tight. Tip I originally used a 6 x 3 inch plate for the front plate but changed it to a 2 inch wide plate later), Steel Block (Around 4 x 1.5 x 0.75 inches), Plastic sheet to reduce friction on the bottom (must be the size of the bottom plate, 7.5 x 3 inches), Assortment of bolts (These can vary depending on what you have available. The 2 nuts would keep it much more stable.The rest of the design seems perfect! The mounting plate size can definitely be adjusted to your needs and you could easily swap them out. I think I have some brass rod that I can use between the set screw and bolt. Thank you. second photo of the knife blank fitted in the slot, need enough thread so it clamps knife to angle Jig without touching the knife. That's a neat idea. There should be a little gap so that the plates do not rub against the round part of the hinge when it rotates. Great work! A regular hinge would require it to be attached. You could of course just put on the bolts and then the Lexan if you didn't want to switch. Have you tried it on an a carving axe? I made the jig to achieve consistent grinds on both sides of the knife without having to reposition the blade, the jig has a definite location point. I only had a scrap piece of Lexan that was large enough but it still reduces the friction some. Because I used the bolts that came with the hinge, the bolt end stuck out of the front of the plate. I can pretty much go 45 degrees in either direction of vertical.

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