beginner bookshelf plans

File the overlapping veneer flush with the plywood surfaces. Stronger 3/4-in. Wrapping the trim around its base adds a touch of style to the bookcase and gives the bottom more visual “weight.” so it appears better-proportioned top to bottom. Building shelving to fit a certain spot calls for more exact planning, but the result is worth it. oak board and tacked a 1-1/4 in. Slide your saw against the guide until the blade nicks the plywood. (I used a dark line so you could see it. However, before you install them, stand them side by side on a flat surface to make sure the holes in the standards line up with each other. thick wood shelves (10 to 12 in. Next, prepare the center divider by cutting 3/4 x 4-in. A). Level the shelving with thin wood shims. (Later, when I wanted to use this guide for a shelf, I trimmed the edge straight, using the other factory edge as a guide.) Plywood has one weakness that solid boards do not. A). Begin installation by removing the base trim (Photo 20) so you can shove the shelving back against the wall. Reinstall the base, wrapping it around the shelving. The design should be simple enough to produce sturdy shelving in a few hours, yet with a few variations and a bit more time, look attractive enough for use in a living area or dining room. With the shelving tight against the wall, level it with shims and screw it to the wall through the braces. While many other materials work well, 3/4-in. Clamp the guide to the plywood sheet so the saw base slides along the factory edge (Photo 1). Finally, assemble and fit the top. thick wood here (standard 1x8s, 1x10s, and 1x12s are all 3/4 in. You know how stuff piles up. Tip: Simplify your finish work by making smooth saw cuts every time. decorative oak molding (Fig. thick and make strong shelves. Since you can finish it in many ways, you can create an endless variety of shelving with it. While most shelves won’t have to hold a car engine, they should probably be strong enough to support a heavy load of books. Finally glue and screw (1-3/4 in. Put a few drops of glue on the shims after you cut them off with a utility knife so they won’t slip out later. Then stop the saw and check your measurement to make sure the cut is exactly right. BestLife52 is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to, or This takes a little longer than if you use 1x12 boards, but plywood has some advantages. No. Well-designed shelves won’t sag. depth worked well for displaying photos, ceramic bowls, and flowers too. The old saying “Measure twice and cut once” is good advice here. In this article, you’ll see the tools and techniques used to build this bookshelf. Screws hold better, but I chose nails for three reasons. First, the surface of solid wood looks more attractive than the veneered oak plywood. Save money and buy a tool of the same battery system you already own: Dewalt, Porter-Cable, Ridgid, and Ryobi make excellent cordless finish nailers. The frame will be square when the diagonals are equal (Photo 11). The bottom piece, which was not scored, splintered when we sawed it. strip off one side of my birch plywood. The homemade jig in Photo 6 improves your accuracy and speeds up the job considerably. To make it fit the room’s decor and look permanent, it was screwed to the wall, wrapped it with the base trim and fitted it with a decorative oak top. Pull out a pad of paper and a pencil and roughly sketch some designs in their room setting. Use 6d finish nails to fasten the ends of the braces to the sides of the frame, because the nailheads leave smaller holes than screws would in this highly visible area. Metal standards (strips) and brackets are strong and easy to install. Stupid puns apart, this is no time for carelessness. Second, it's easier to apply edge molding to solid wood, because you don't have to worry about ruining the thin veneer on plywood when you sand the molding joints smooth. This free bookcase plan includes a tools list, … There’s always more than one good way to build a shelf. dowel into the last hole drilled, and clamped and drilled again (Photo 6). If all four holes that support a shelf don’t line up exactly, the shelf will have an annoying wobble. After predrilling all four sides, I spread yellow carpenter’s glue on each end of the horizontal frame pieces (Photo 10) and drove the nails home, punching them below the wood surface with a nail set (not shown). The simple shelf supports that fit in a 1/4-in. Cut notches for the braces in the center section, using a jigsaw or handsaw. apart. Examine the alternative design illustrations at the end of this page to see how you can adapt shelf sizes for other purposes. reveal nicely hides small height variations in the floor. So when you plan their length, you’ll want them to support the heaviest objects you’re likely to set on them without causing them to dip noticeably. Below you’ll find some standard dimensions for various household objects, but don’t hesitate to measure others, especially odd-sized things like the television. It took me two hours to cut the pieces for our shelving. You’ll have to bow the top and bottom outward slightly to fit it in without smearing the glue. Deeply score crosscut lines on the top side with a utility knife to prevent splintering. Tennis rackets, skates, tools and other equipment multiply with every new sport or hobby. Nail on the front brace (Fig. shelf length is 26 in. After cutting out the 11-1/4 in. Since you’ll want to adapt this design to your own special use, I’ll present several alternative building techniques to give you more options. Predrilling with the countersink bit in Photo 17 makes quick, clean holes for the screws. The materials for this shelving cost $190. Unfortunately, the whole process can take quite a bit of time. You could easily mess up the alignment if you begin the holes at different levels or flip the jig over, top to bottom when you switch to another board. When the shelf is in place, you’ll hardly notice them, although the vertical series of holes looks like the work of a very precise woodpecker. materials and tells you how much each choice costs. This Snappy drill bit set allows you to drill, countersink and counterbore holes in one easy operation. And third, screwheads leave big holes that are difficult to fill, while finish nails leave small holes. But not always. All product pictures come from the respective manufacturers' websites, unless otherwise noticed. shelf in place so it doesn’t wobble); (D) Spoon-shaped style. Measure across each diagonal, then push the corners in or out until the two measurements are the same. It has 5 sizes (#4, #6, #8, #10, or #12 screws) and it does cost more than other sets. Adjust the frame until they’re equal. Space the cleats so the shelves adjust easily. This avoids wobbly shelves later. Instead. You can keep the books lying sideways one on top of another in case you think keeping them as shown in the picture might be damaging to the binding. If you adjust the guide so the blade cuts just to the waste side of the line, you won’t splinter the wood, as shown in Photo 5. Two tools are essential for drilling good holes: Tip: In reality, a brad point bit doesn’t always cut a perfect hole. By using the factory edge as an 8-ft. saw guide, you can cut your shelving perfectly straight with a circular saw (Photo 1). I’m being a bit conservative here, lumping all wood species and plywood together. Nailing or screwing a series of cleats to the sides of the shelving is the strongest system and is particularly useful for utility shelves, where appearance is less important (Photo 13). Unless it has a wide, stable base, shelving that’s over 3 ft. high should be screwed directly to the wall framing. Iron the veneer onto all the visible edges, including the shelves, so they’ll look identical to the sides when painted. The subsection below shows two alternative support methods. boards like oak and maple can sometimes span another foot, depending on their quality. Predrilling isn’t strictly necessary, especially with plywood, but I like to do it so the nail will drive perfectly straight and hit the center of the board on the other side. This operation, called crosscutting, presents an additional problem. Spread glue evenly across the ends and nail all four corners. Square the frame by measuring across the two diagonals. However, it is made in America and it will also last longer than other cheap Chinese kits. If you’re experienced with these tools, you can build this shelving. You can make them somewhat decorative by using a molding as shown in the photo below. The shelves were painted to match the woodwork and received a decorative oak top, stained to match the floor.

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